A bit of Dabbous..
It is a truth universally acknowledged by food critics that Dabbous is a restaurant worthy of month-long reservation attempts. For me, I have found tastier solace at its downstairs bar. You’ll find bar nibble quickies (BBQ beef buns, etc.), some Dabbous signature dishes, awesome desserts and funky cocktails. And, in my opinion, Barnyard – a walk-in only restaurant by Ollie Dabbous – is precisely that.
The mood at Barnyard is English, and with the help of wood interior and incubator-looking lights, quite a barn. The cooking is relaxed but inventive. There are glimpses of what’s served at Dabbous. Divided according to.. species of barn animals – pig, cow, chicken, and eggs – the menu holds no indication of starters or mains (price between £4-12; average £6-7), though the friendly FOH will be happy to talk you through it. Vegetables are pretty much side dishes (£3-5), and desserts are all £4.
Previously a dish at Dabbous, BBQ Short Rib (£12) was this neatly squared and carefully griddled piece of meat (taken from between the ribs). Clean and calm taste. Tender but retaining bites. The tangy dill pickle contributed crunch. The mustard sauce could have carried more strength. (Creamy but too neutral taste to me). More intense was Broken Egg with Mushrooms, Garlic and Parsley (£6). The slow-cooked egg was stirred in rich roasted mushroom concoction and garnished with dehydrated bread crust and leafy parsley. I liked Chicken in a Bun (£6), which arrived as a substantially-sized, brioche-cushioned sandwich. The mildly sweet, aerated bun contrasted well with cleansing acidity from the lettuce garnish. I also had Hispi Cabbage (£3) with butter and cloves, which was as delicious as a cabbage could be. For desserts, I ate a quarter of a waffle (a Dabbous-esque way of gastronomic striptease). £4. It was perfection. The surface shattered; the soft pancake-y inside was delicate oozing malt. Over it, I smeared loose milky chocolate paste and crème fraîche. And that’s it. I’ll be back to get a whole one.
RATING 4/4
BARNYARD
18 Charlotte Street
London
W1T 2LZ
Tel. 020 7580 3842
